Monday, May 15, 2006

Train-ing in China!

Beijing, China (2006)

In Chinese trains, a passenger has two options while deciding how to travel, sometimes three. One is the regular seats (not found in all long distance trains) and the other two options are the soft-sleeper and the hard-sleeper. While planning my trip, I was adviced against using long distance trains within China, specially the "hard-sleeper" berths, as the journey would be long and difficult. I took two trains, the first from Beijing to Guilin (23 hours) and the second was from Guilin to Shenzhen (12 hours). I chose the hard sleeper on both, as I did not want to shell out the extra 40-50% for the tickets on the soft sleeper. I was pleasantly surprised. The berths were very clean and comfortable, with soft pillows and comforters provided! It wasn't hard, neither was it soft, but it was nice and I had no complaints! You can see this from the pic above, which I took from my comfy middle berth!

But thats not all. The hospitality and facilities on both trains was out of this world. As the picture below suggests, each compartment had a crisply uniformed female attendant/ticket collector on duty(all extremely beautiful as well, I might add!). She had her own small cabin which doubled up as an office. Throughout the journey she was always around to ask for help, though in my case we were both helpless as I did not know Mandarin. But again, the language barrier is usual in China anywhere!

I found out that the Chinese are very fond of instant noodles during long journeys, so there is always boiling hot water through a tap in each compartment to prepare your noodles! There are LCD TV screens for each coupe which feature short programs or Chinese MTV, and digital display signs flash the current temperature, date and next destination. Each berth bed has a small hanging lamp and coat hook provided and there is a flask and waste bin for each set of 6 berths in a coupe. Soft Chinese music is played from the morning to evening, and its volume can be regulated in each coupe if you want to. All lights except the night lamps are switched off at 10pm precisely, after which one can use the lamps provided. There are common washbasins whose decor can rival any restaurant's, but the toilets are basic and are cleaned every hour or so. I did find a few toilets uncleaned and was not able to enter!

Hawkers are not allowed inside the trains, but there is everything from perfumes to coke sold inside by licensed, uniformed sellers. A full fledged restaurant compartment can also be found. The security inside the trains is impeccable. At most stations, there are large boards displaying the current time and the departure time of the train on the platform, with corresponding alarm bells and warning whistles to alert the people who left the train to buy something. A few minutes before the train departs, the stairs collapse into the floor of the compartment and all doors are automatically shut using a special key by each attendant. Very sophisticated, and the journey was fast!

So were there no problems at all, you ask? Well there were a few. For starters, the smoking! I took a pic of this official sticker on a train compartment wall and found it very amusing! The Chinese are generally very heavy smokers and it gets annoying after a while. Smoking in trains is allowed only between compartments, but since the doors were always open the smoke always wafted in to my berth, which unfortunately was the first in the compartment. Also, another great pass time for the Chinese is playing cards or board games, and if you are unlucky, you might end up having a small crowd in your coupe playing or observing a game seriously. But all in good fun!

The trains are slower than a flight, of course, but what better way than to journey ACROSS China than by a train? Most importantly, both trips, inspite of these excellent facilities didn't cost a bomb.

And that's the beauty of travelling in China!

Beggars can't be choosers...

Chandigarh, India (2005)

I was hanging around in Sector 17 one evening (the only real "happening" place in Chandigarh), penniless and doing nothin but watching life go by as people went about their business, when I happened to be literally accosted out of nowhere by a pushy child beggar just outside a swanky nightclub (You need to experience it once to know how pushy they can get!). For some reason he thought that I was the son of a Sheikh (ahem..what can I say). He kept following me for a while with his well practised dialogue, trying to squeeze me out of my money(I only had loose change on myself!), and I kept putting him off for awhile telling him he was chasing the wrong person.

And then these three stunning women walked by me towards the club strutting their stuff..The little runt made a beeline towards them, screwing up his face with the same dialogue of "I've been hungry all day, please give me some money"...I watched with interest, eager to know what their reaction would be. What I saw next stunned me. One of these girls, actually cornered this 8 year old boy dressed in rags, and complimented him on his "acting" and asked him who his favorite actor was. She told him that he would get some money from them ONLY if he could shoot off some dialogues from his favorite actor Shah Rukh Khan (the superstar in Indian movies). By then, the child was smiling, taken aback by this unusual behavior from a stilleto-wearing, cleavage-popping, club hopping girl. He belted out a few dialogues and was quite impressed by his own capacity. The girls heard him, laughed, and behind them all, I was smiling too..he really had some talent! The girls gave him some change and left, and he was left standing there in a stupor, a BIG smile pasted all over his face which refused to go away.

I had to walk up to him, and I asked him if he suddenly wasnt desperately hungry anymore? Didn't he want to rush and get some food in his belly quickly anymore? He nodded conveying to me that he was still very hungry, but with a smile, he just sat down. I squatted on the pavement near him too and thats when it struck me..it wasnt about the money, it wasnt about the hunger..what this child was really missing in his dreary life was a genuine smile, some happiness. He was already missing the joys of childhood because he was forced to beg in order to survive ..and today, when these girls gave him a rare chance like this, it was like a fresh breath of air for him..

Think about it. Do we really spare a thought for such beggars or the homeless, ever? I mean, we always try to put them off, or give them some change and try to get away as quick as possible..and then they are forgotten..but today, what i saw was something different..someone DID try to stop a while and make a difference in this little childs life. It was not out of any compulsion or any real necessity..it was just a good gesture from an unexpected quarters..

I stood up to leave, giving him all the change I had left in my pockets.